Installation Instructions for Air Injection Systems with HD Digital Controller

Covers AIO-S, AIO-G, and AIO-P filter systems.

Thank You

Thank you for purchasing a new Air Injection System from AFWFilters. We appreciate the opportunity you have given us to provide you with better water. We are committed to providing the best customer experience possible and have provided these installation instructions to make things as simple as possible. If you have read through these entire instructions and FAQ section and still have questions feel free to contact us for further help. Our office hours are Monday-Friday 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM CT, and you can call us at 785-735-9769. You can also use the contact us link above to connect you to one of our technical experts.

Before You Begin

Basic plumbing skills are required for installation. If you are unsure of your abilities to install the system using these instructions please hire a qualified plumber.

Read through your parts list and verify all components are accounted for and in good condition BEFORE scheduling a plumber.

Please read through the entire instruction manual carefully. If hiring a plumber ensure they have a copy before they start.

Most common questions are answered in the instructions or FAQ section. If you have read both of those and still have questions you may contact us for further help.

Plumbing related questions need to be directed to a locally qualified plumber. We are not plumbers and any plumbing questions we receive will not be answered.

System Requirements

Your chosen installation location and water supply must meet ALL of the following requirements:

  1. Verify System Inventory

Use the following table to help verify the parts that are included with your system and verify that they are all accounted for. Inspect all parts for damage and report any damage immediately. Damage claims must be made within 30 days of delivery to be eligible for replacement.

Resin/Media Tank
Polyglass Tank
A tall slender tank 44–65 inches in height with an opening on the top. Larger tanks may have a gray threaded adapter to reduce tank opening to match control head. Please Note: If you have the Vortech tank upgrade, the Vortech tank replaces the standard tank, so a system with the Vortech tank upgrade will still have only one polyglass tank.
Note for loaded systems: Tanks that are shipped loaded may arrive on their side or even upside down. The tanks are closed and the media will return to the bottom once place in the correct position. Any mixing of tank contents will correct itself after being placed in service.
Distributor Tube

OR

Vortech Tank
Riser/Distributor Tube
A tall pipe that runs from the bottom of the tank to the control valve. If your tank is loaded (empty tanks only weigh 20-30 pounds) DO NOT pull the riser tube out of the tank. One end has a basket (basket design varies) and it usually ships inside the tank. Please Note: On systems with the Vortech tank there is no basket as the pipe is connected to the bottom tank plate and in not removable. (Tank cutaway shown)
HD Digital Controller
Control Head
Screws on top of the tank and controls the water flow and backwashing cycles.
Connection Options
Bypass Valve
Depending on your order your system will have either a single piece stainless steel bypass or a two part plastic bypass with yoke connection. This is what connects to your control head and provides standard fitting connections to hook up to your plumbing.
Fleck couplers with check valve
Couplers/Check Valve
The couplers connect the control head and bypass valve together. One coupler will have a check valve built in to it. Includes O-rings (already attached) to seal the connection and screws and clips to secure the connection. Typically connected to the control head when received.
Drain Fittings
Drain Fitting
Fitting(s) that connect the control head to the drain line. Please Note: Drain line is not included. Depending on the system ordered there are multiple options, and the pictures shown are common examples but actual fitting may vary.
Unloaded systems only
Most systems will ship loaded. Some larger systems and systems with heavier media may ship partially loaded (with some media in the tank and some separate) or completely unloaded for easier placement.
Garnet and Gravel
Gravel/garnet
Small rocks or pebbles to promote water distribution. Most systems use standard gravel, but very large systems and some heavy iron filter medias will use the denser garnet gravel. Gravel goes in first, at the bottom of polyglass tank.
Filter Medias
Media
Bag(s) of material placed in the polyglass tank that does the actual treatment of the water. Color of media may vary
Please Note: Depending on system size you may receive more than one package of media packaged differently. This is normal. The system is designed to use all the media shipped with it, however, sometimes a media bag can be overfilled. The media will typicaly only fill the tank about halfway, this is normal. The system needs the extra space at the top of the tank for proper backwash and the air bubble, and overfilling the tank may lead to improper system operation.
Funnel
Funnel
The funnel is a complementary item that MAY be included with some unloaded systems to help fill the polyglass tank with the media. If your system does not include one, a blender pitcher with the blade assembly removed will screw onto the tank and work well.

Depending on system size you can see what tank size and media amounts you will receive:

System Size 0.5 ft³ 1 ft³ 1.5 ft³ 2 ft³ 2.5 ft³
Tank (in inches) 9 x 48 10 x 54 12 x 52 13 x 54 14 x 65
Gravel/Garnet 12 lb 16 lb 20 lb 35 lb 50 lb
media 0.5 ft³ 1 ft³ 1.5 ft³ 2 ft³ 2.5 ft³

Before you start plumbing

  1. Pre-installation preparation

Money-saving tip: If hiring a plumber to do the installation you can save some money by preparing the tank ahead of time. This cuts down on the time the plumber has to spend and doing so is simple enough that most people can accomplish it in less than an hour.

  1. Verify riser tube position
Tank & Riser
Tank & Riser
Vortech Tank
Vortech Tank

NOTE REGARDING VORTECH TANKS: The Vortech tank replaces the standard tank. If installing more than one system ensure to match up the media with the correct tank. Vortech tanks are most commonly used in backwashing iron filters and will not typically be used for water softeners (including All-in-one and Iron Pro softeners).Systems upgraded with the Vortech tank have the riser tube attached and it will not come out of the tank, do NOT try to pull the riser tube out of a Vortech tank.

NOTE REGARDING LOADED TANKS: Systems that arrive loaded will have the riser tube in place and attempting to remove it will require the tank to be emptied and refilled. DO NOT try to remove the riser tube from a loaded tank.

The riser tube sits in an indentation centered in the bottom of the tank. With the riser tube properly positioned, ensure that it is within 1/3 inch (8 mm) above or below the lip of the tank. If it is not contact us for help correcting the problem.

If your system came loaded - Skip down to the section titled "Finish filling the tank with water".

If your system was not loaded or partially loaded - Continue to the next step.

  1. Fill tank partially with water Optional

This optional step will help buffer the media as it is poured in and will also help minimize air bubbles upon initial startup. Simply pour water into the tank until it is 1/4 - 1/3 filled with water.

  1. Load media and gravel—gravel goes in first
Tank with funnel
Tank with Funnel

Make sure to cover the opening of the riser tube. Simply put something over the end of the tube such as a piece of tape, to prevent anything from falling into the riser tube.

If you have gravel with your system it will go in first!
Please note: MOST systems upgraded with a Vortech Tank do NOT require gravel. With some medias (such as Filox/Mang-Ox) gravel is still required for the best results, so if you have gravel, use it. Make sure to empty all boxes to verify it is not in the bottom of the tank box or in a box with the media.

When filling the tank, do so slowly and ensure the riser tube stays correctly positioned and centered in the tank. If you have more than one bag of media, after gravel the order does not matter and all of it should be used. Once all the media is loaded the tank will not be completely full, this is normal.

  1. Finish filling tank with water Optional

Once the media is loaded you may finish filling the tank with water. Allow media to soak for 12-24 hours. This can help reduce air bubbles and ease initial startup.

  1. Attach the Control Head
  1. Lubricate the O-rings DO NOT use Vaseline
Tank O-ring
Tank O-ring
Pilot O-ring
Pilot O-ring

The tank O-ring——seals the control valve to the tank, and the pilot O-ring——seals around the riser tube. Verify they are present and free from nicks or kinks. Use a silicone lubricant or vegetable oil to both O-rings. DO NOT use petroleum based lubricants! Please note that the pilot O-ring is up inside the control head and you will usually have to reach up inside to feel it. It is very secure inside the head and almost impossible for it to come out. It is also a good idea to verify that the riser tube fits snugly into the pilot hole and that the O-ring seals around it.

  1. Inspect and install dispersal basket
Dispersal Basket
Dispersal Basket

Air Injection Systems will have a top dispersal basket— used to facilitate the oxidation process. The larger end will be towards the bottom of the tank, with the cone pointing up. Push it down the riser tube until the top is about 1 inch (25 mm) below the bottom of the tank threads.

  1. Screw on control head hand tight only

DO NOT apply anything (pipe dope, plumbers paste, Teflon tape, etc.) to the threads on the control head or the resin tank!

Ensure the riser tube slips inside the pilot opening in the bottom of the head. Screw the head down onto the resin tank until solid contact is made between the tank and O-ring, then tighten about another 1/4–1/3 of a turn and STOP. Do not over tighten the control head as this can cause damage. Once properly tightened down check to ensure the tank and control head meet evenly all the way around.

  1. Setup Control Head
  1. Plug control head in

Plug the control head into a qualifing outlet as stated in the requirements section. Please Note: The control head can be plugged in and operated without water, this will not damage the control head. Once plugged in, verify the system is receiving power and ensure the outlet is not on a switch that might get turned off. The display should light up and will indicate the time of day, set regeneration time, and interval until next backwash.

  1. Inital valve setup
SXT Display
HD Digital Controls

For initial programming enter programming mode by holding the setting button for 5 seconds - SET will appear in the upper left corner. Use the up arrow adjust the setting and the right arrow to move the cursor, then press the setting button to move on to the next setting. Please Note: Most of these settings are pre-programmed and should not be changed.

Do not change any settings unless specifically instructed to do so by these instructions or one of our techs.

[T&D]
Time and Day - Set to the current time (24 hour format) and day of the week.

[CT]
Control Type - Should be set to TC for time clock based backwash.

[UM]
Unit Mode - Gallon is default and used for these instructions.

[WH]
If you are seeing this setting please contact one of our support technicians for assistance.

[#PPL]
If you are seeing this setting please contact one of our support technicians for assistance.

[REF]
If you are seeing this setting please contact one of our support technicians for assistance.

[TCAP]
If you are seeing this setting please contact one of our support technicians for assistance.

[DO]
Day Override - this setting will start the backwash cycle after the set number of days. Typically set no higher than 3 to ensure the gets lifted and cleaned off.For Filox media: Filox media used in AIO-P systems requires backwashing at minimum every 2 days, with every night recommended for best media life. This ensures effective filtration and long life.

[DW]
If you are seeing this setting please contact one of our support technicians for assistance.

[RT]
Regen Time, this is the time of day the backwash will start. This process typically takes 1.5-2 hours depending on system size, so schedule it when water will not be used. It is common to set to run when everyone is asleep, and ensure it does not conflict with any other systems you may have.

[BW]
Backwash - Typicaly set to 10, this cleans the media off. For very dirty water this may be increased to better clean the system. Reducing this setting may reduce media life and/or lead to improper operation.

[BSR]
Brine Slow Rinse - Draws in air to create the air pocket. Typically set at 40-60 minutes. Shorter times may create a smaller air pocket and may reduce system performance.

[FR]
Fast Rinse - Set to 0, not used on Air Injection Systems.

[BR]

Brine Refill - Set to 0, not used on Air Injection Systems.

Once all parameters have been set the display will return to normal, showing the current time, day of the week, and days remaining until the next backwash. Once it reaches 0 the system will queue a backwash for the set time. An immediate backwash can be initiated by holding the right button for about 5 seconds.

  1. Controller reset

If your controller is showing odd behavior such as erratic display or no display, the first step is to try and reset it. Unplug the unit and hold down the setting button while plugging it back it. Factory defaults will be restored and you wil need to go through the programming instructions to ensure everything is set correctly.

Plumbing the system in

  1. Plumbing Guidelines

Before you continue Many homeowners install their own water systems with basic plumbing skills; if you are not comfortable with projects like this, please hire a professional plumber. Make sure to check local plumbing codes and follow any codes that apply. These intructions offer basic plumbing tips and can not cover every situation. They are intendend as a supplement and should not replace local plumbing codes or actual plumbing experience.

  1. Drain Line Connection

Please note: Drain water comes out under line pressure, so it can be run vertically to connect to an overhead drain pipe.


Drain Fitting

Example Drain w/ Air Gap

Never make a direct connection into a waste water drain. A physical air gap of at least 3 inches (76 mm) between the end of the drain line and the wastewater level in the drain pipe should be used to avoid contamination of the line. An additional gap of 3/4 inch (19 mm) between the drain pipe and drain line is recommended to prevent any problems in the case of a pipe overflow. Using a simple P-trap as shown——is ideal as well, but a stand pipe with a diameter of at least 1.5 inches (38 mm) is adequate. As the water coming out is under pressure, make sure to secure the drain line so that it does not move and create a mess.

Do not tie multiple systems into a single drain line.
If hooking up multiple systems, each system needs a separate, independent drain line to ensure proper operation and prevent damage. Systems can all be run to the same standpipe/sump/outside drain, but the drain line from each system needs to be separate.
Do not use additional fittings on the drain line.
Avoid installing any additional fittings (check valves, ball/gate valves, etc.) as this can prevent proper backwash and cause premature system failure.

  1. Inlet/Outlet Connections
Couplers with check valve
Couplers with Check Valve
Connection Options
Connection Fitting

Do not overtighten the screws. The bypass valve will have some up and down movement, this is normal. The clips simply hold the connection fittings together and the screws only need tightened enough to keep the clips in place. Further tightening will not stop leaks and tightening too much can damage the system, which will not be covered under warranty.

Verify flow direction. Untreated water will enter the system on the side marked with an arrow pointing toward the front of the control head (on both the bypass valve and the control head itself). The inlet side will have a check valve and water will flow through it into the tank, the side shown——will be facing you. (some models will have an arrow on the check valve itself, and the arrow should point toward the head). Treated water will exit the system on the side marked with an arrow pointing away from the front of the control head (on both the bypass valve and the control head itself).

Correct inlet/outlet connections are vital. Improper flow direction will prevent proper operation and can damage your system and your plumbing. The direction of flow can not be changed. Turning the bypass upside down will not change the direction of the water flow.

Bypass position
Bypass Position

It is recommended to keep the bypass in the service position when making plumbing connections and turn it to bypass when first turning the water back on. shows the bypass position. In bypass position the handles will be turned 90-degrees and be perpendicular to the inlet and outlet fittings.

When soldering do not solder directly to the included connection or close to the control control head. First solder a short (min 3-inch [7.6-cm]) piece of copper pipe onto the adapters, away from the valve, before connecting the adapter to the bypass or yoke fitting.

For threaded connections, do NOT tighten the adapters into fittings while they are connected to the control head. Disconnect the bypass or yoke fitting, and connect the adapter using a high quality thread sealant (pipe joint compound or Teflon/PTFE tape), and replace.

When installed the bypass valve can move up and down, this is normal.

  1. Place System in Service

Once all plumbing is done and plumbing connections have been checked for leaks you can place the system in service.

  1. Open bypass valve slowly

If you have more than one system, enure the other systems are bypassed to prevent any possible problems. Open a faucet that is near the system, a laundry sink or outside faucet (if it will be treated by the system) is ideal, this will allow the air to bleed out of the system. Slowly open up the bypass valve just to the point of allowing water to enter the system at a trickle, and leave it like that until the tank is full of water. If you prefilled the system it should only take a minute or two. Once the tank is full, slowly open the bypass valve the rest of the way. Allow water to run out of the faucet for 15-20 minutes to ensure all the air is worked out of the tank and off of the , then close the faucet.

  1. Check for leaks

Check the system for any leaks, paying attention to the seal between the tank and control head as well as the connections between the bypass valve and control head. Open a nearby faucet and check to ensure there is no leaks that show up when water is running.

  1. Flush the system

Open a nearby faucet. The water may be discolored at first, this is normal. Let water run out of the faucet for at least 10 minutes, or until any discoloration clears up. Depending on the system this may be almost immediate, or it may take a couple of hours. Once the water is cleared up a manual backwash should be run.

  1. Initiate manual backwash

It is a good idea to allow the system to run through a manual cycle. Hold the right arrow for 5-10 seconds until the cycle starts.

  1. Verify proper operation

Watch the system as it steps through each cycle, make sure it moves to each position, that water is not leaking from any other fittings, and that water is flowing down the drain line.

Be sure to return any other systems to the service position.

Frequently Asked Questions

Inventory and Setup

What is the proper order to arrange multiple systems?

If you are installing more than one tank system the typical order for installation is:
sediment filter > pH filter > iron filter > carbon filter > water softener > arsenic filter
Whole house cartridge systems are typically installed after any tank systems, the Scale Sentry system after the cartridge system(s), and any UV systems will be last.

Do I need a prefilter?

In most cases a prefilter is not necessary. Since the system cleans itself most particulate in the water will be trapped and rinsed off by the backwash cycle, eliminating the need for a sediment prefilter. If you have a lot of sand in the water a spin down filter (part #SDF-100) is recommended to protect the control head - http://store.afwfilters.com/parts-components/spin-down-sand-separator-filter-1-inch/.

My polyglass tank arrived and sits crooked, what do I do?

The black boot on the bottom of the tank may get knocked out of alignment during shipment. If your tank is a bit tilted, simply pick the tank up 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) off the floor and drop it gently but firmly down, favoring the side that needs to be adjusted to make the tank stand straight.

After installing the bypass it still moves up and down, is that normal?

Yes. The bypass seals with O-ring and even when tightened down some movement will occur, without leaking. The system requires this movement to allow for pressure changes in the system. Do not overtighten the bypass valve. As long as the screws are snug enough to keep the bypass from coming apart further tightening will just cause damage.

Drain Line

Can I run my drain line to a sewer/septic?

Yes. These systems can be ran to your sewer or septic line and is typically the recommended place to run the drain. Most concerns are related to the amount of water going down the drain, and a properly designed septic/sewer system will not have a problem handling it.

Can my drain line be ran vertically?

Yes. Water from the drain comes out under pressure and can be ran vertically if needed.

Version:5D
Revised: 5/3/2019